harpers bazaar march 1993
i couldnt not stop at this article written by sarah mower back in 1993 now could i?
given all the recent coverage about the change in the catwalk show landscape.
there has been much talk about the impact of social media and the need by some brands to move to a show now buy now/wear formats selling directly to customers.
as opposed to showing a collection and having it delievered into store 6 months later.
now every body wants imediacy, they have seen the imagery all over the place, all over the world as it happens, and on the back of a celebrity soon after, so by the time it arrives in stores 6 months later are they already bored of it?
as a designer myself everything really just merges into the next thing as a constant evolving mood, i am always ready and looking for thr next thing and i do find myself constantly checking what season am i in.
the fracas back in 1993 was to do with the scheduling of the french shows some wanted to stay in mid march while others saw a benefit in moving them forward to february.
but sarah mower suggests there were really other deeper underlying shifts re shaping the fashion landscape.
was it actually a 90’s rebellion against the grandois style of late 80’s shows?
geoffrey beene is quoted as saying, “the hype of it is so boring. the ego of it all and the super model thing were begining to eclipse the design itself. there is a great slide into mediocrity on all sides-and i dont want to be mediocre”
wise words mr beene.
commenting on lavish shows and extravaganza of the time his thoughts are still relevant today. where its the frenzy of the street stylers mixed with the celebrity front row that can eclipse what actually ends up on the catwalk.
bernadine morris the then fashion editor of the new york times, comments on her preference for small showroom presentations, where you get to see the clothes up close and get personal with the designers,
“thats where the opportunity for dialogue about real clothes”.
also an opinion shared by rose marie bravo of saks fith avenue,
“theres something wonderful about seeing clothes close up in the showroom”.
suzy menkes is philosophical, she says,
” i think it will be a case of scaling down something that has got out of control. But i still think there’s nothing to beat the magic of a really good show.”
and i agree, i still fantasise that one day i eventually will get to watch a dries van noten show, and have a hand written note with my name on it that i can frame!!! and put in the downstairs loo.but i cant see that happening any time soon.
so me like the rest of the fans out there i will just have to view online or on social media untill we can see and feel it ourselves when it arrives in store.
so how did the french incident get resolved?
karl lagerfeld was tracked down at a personal event in california and petitioned by fax on his prefernce, when did he want to show?
his reply stated 13-20 march, so everyone else fell into line.
so sometimes nothing really changes!